Pinelands: Natural Splendor & Flavors Abound in South Jersey

As a native “Jersey Girl,” I admit that I love this state. I have called other states home, traveled to many parts of the world, and have always returned to my home base. A big part of what intrigues me about New Jersey is its diversity of landscapes, and that diversity is what brings me to our story. After moving to Brigantine Island two years ago with my partner, we started exploring the Pinelands. It is an area that I have read about over the years, but this is my first chance to really explore it.

The New Jersey Pine Barrens (also known as the Pinelands) is a vast ecosystem, stretching across seven counties. To this day, the Pine Barrens remains mostly rural with much of its natural lands untouched by development. In 1978, Congress passed legislation to designate 1.1 million acres (17,000 square miles) as the Pinelands National Reserve (the nation’s first). The Pinelands was designated a U.S. Biosphere Reserve in 1983 and an International Biosphere Reserve in 1988 by UNESCO.

The Pinelands is home to the most extensive surviving forest on the Eastern seaboard (Maine to Florida). The reserve includes the Wharton State Forest, T. Byrne State Forest, the Bass River State Forest, and the Penn State Forest. Four pristine rivers run through the Pinelands (Mullica, Wading, Batsto, and Oswego rivers), winding their way to the Great Bay and, ultimately, the Atlantic Ocean.

Sampling the Diversity

We often craft day trips that combine nature and (of course!) food. Since moving to this part of New Jersey, our adventures frequently take us to the area near Egg Harbor City, Galloway, and Port Republic. Egg Harbor City lies 18 miles west of Atlantic City, right off the White Horse Pike (Route 30), a route that follows the course of an old Lenape trail running from Camden to the Absegami lands, now known as Absecon.

The explorers’ tradition was well established here by 1614 when the Dutch explorer Cornelius Jacobsen Mey traveled the coast with a desire for settlement and expansion in the “New World.” The meadows at the mouth of the Mullica River (near Port Republic) were so covered with shorebird and waterfowl eggs that he called the inlet “Eyren Haven” (Egg Harbor). The name stuck and was used for the Pinelands settlement of Egg Harbor City (EHC) founded in 1854 by German Americans. The German immigrants who moved to the area at that time were escaping violence and persecution in Philadelphia by members of an anti-immigrant group known as the Know-Nothing Movement. One visible sign of EHC history and German influence are the nearby street names: Hamburg, Bremen, Berlin, Frankfurt, Cologne, Mannheim, and Leipzig, to name a few.

One needs to spend some time to really appreciate all EHC and the surrounding region have to offer the modern explorer. There is a warm feeling of community, with many small farms, thriving businesses, wineries, and nature centers. Here is a small sampling of the area’s diversity of flavors and natural wonders.

 EGG HARBOR CITY / GALLOWAY 

PHOTO: COURTESY OF LINDA TAYLOR FOR HAMMERBACHER BAKERY

EUROPEAN-STYLE ARTISANAL BREADS ARE THE MUST-HAVE HERE. SOME OF MY FAVORITES ARE RUSTIC SOURDOUGH, MILK AND BUTTER LOAF, BAGUETTE, FOCACCIA, AND PULL-APART ROLLS.

HAMMERBACHER BAKERY

Lauren and Paul Erbacher’s bakery intrigued me from my very first visit. The industrial-looking building is located off a side street (Boston Avenue) of the White Horse Pike. It has a welcoming vibe and, once inside, I felt right at home. Their offerings change daily and, through the seasons, they use as many local ingredients as possible. Right away, I knew I would become a regular customer.

Being a professional baker myself, I am a picky customer and Hammerbacher Bakery never disappoints. This is an ideal spot to stock up for your day of adventure and I recommend arriving as close as possible to when they open (10am on Saturdays).

European-style artisanal breads are the must-have here. Some of my favorites are rustic sourdough, milk and butter loaf, baguette, focaccia, and pull-apart rolls. Their laminated pastries, croissants, and danish are magnificent, as are their cinnamon buns, sticky buns, scones, and cookies. The bakery offers a full lineup of savory goods to go along with the bread, including cheese, charcuterie, soups, and pickled veggies from Walking Bird Farm. Another personal favorite: the most delicious knishes I have ever tasted—perfect mashed potatoes with melted cheddar in pastry dough.

Lauren and Paul both have spent years in the food business. Lauren grew up in a family that owned a restaurant in Margate. Paul spent years working with top chefs around the country and traveling the world perfecting his knowledge. They met in a South Jersey restaurant where Paul was the executive chef and Lauren waited tables. They shared notes on kitchen tickets as their relationship blossomed. Lauren and Paul have made their home at Hammerbacher Bakery, where they are committed to producing high-quality, reasonably priced products and to sharing their love of baking with their South Jersey community. They are passionate about their community and future plans include turning their outdoor space into a park and increasing outdoor seating.

40 Boston Ave. A
Egg Harbor City
hammerbacherkitchen.com

Jennifer LaMonaca with sunflowers at Walking Bird Farm. Photo courtesy of Ryan Lamonaca for Wallking Bird Farm.

WALKING BIRD FARM

(“formerly B&B Farms: same farmers, new name”)

Finding a supply of fresh produce during the first months of the pandemic was difficult. We were lucky to sign up with Walking Bird Farm (WBF), a community-supported agriculture (CSA) cooperative. By the end of May, we were so pleased to be outside and shopping in a Covid-safe environment at Walking Bird while partaking of the farm’s incredible bounty. Owner/farmers Jen and Ryan LaMonaca seriously follow all the guidelines while providing a variety of fresh produce to their customers.

Our CSA membership also entitled us to purchase products brought in by Jennifer and Ryan from other coop farms and artisanal businesses:

• Cycle Farm—chicken and eggs
• Faith Farm—mushrooms
• Griggstown Farm—ground turkey and poultry sausage
• Hammerbacher Bakery—breads and a variety of baked goods bakery
• Mill Creek Apiary—honey
• Misty Meadow Sheep Farm—cheese and ice cream

Walking Bird Farm, established in 2010, is 40 acres of land and hoop houses that yield a large variety of produce. Integrated pest management and organic practices are used whenever possible. Jen and Ryan are a dynamic duo with a community-minded energy that makes their farm a very special place. The farm serves over 350 CSA members and is open to the public for you-pick strawberries in late May and June, blueberries in mid-June and July, and flowers when available. They hope to get back to holding their annual Farm to Table dinners and other events once the Covid situation allows.

250 S. Mannheim Ave.
Egg Harbor City
609.338.8690
walkingbirdfarm.com

Photos courtesy of Katie Wiegand for Sprout and Thicket.

SPROUT AND THICKET FLOWER FARM

Katie Wiegand’s gorgeous flowers have long been a standout to us at the Brigantine Island Farmers’ Market and a trip to the pop-up stand at her farm is always a treat. Here in Galloway, she sells her flowers out of the cutest pink shed, and they sell like lightning. In addition to offering a flower CSA, Katie creates seasonal bouquets for weddings and other special events.

After Hurricane Sandy devastated her bakery, Sandcastle Cupcakes, on Asbury Avenue in Ocean City, Katie took two years off to start a family. Flowers are Katie’s first love. So, when she was ready to return to work, she started a business growing them. She and her husband recently expanded to meet increased demand, buying 20 acres in EHC and building a 60-foot-long hoop house to start seedlings. Only 10% of all flowers bought in the United States are grown in this country, according to Katie, and she is working to change that. Follow her on social media to see where she will pop up next.

626 W. Duerer St.
Galloway
sproutandthicketflowerfarm.com

Renault is the only winery in the U.S. that is able to label with the title of Champagne. Photo courtesy of Renault Winery.

RENAULT WINERY

A 24-foot-tall concrete champagne bottle, built in the 1920s as part of an advertising campaign, marks the turn onto Bremen Avenue from Route 30 on the way to Renault Winery. This winery is one of the most unique on the East Coast and one of the oldest continuously operating wineries in the United States. It was founded in 1864 by Louis Nicolas Renault, an immigrant from the Champagne region of France, who imported vinifera vines, traditional methods, and French licenses to produce champagne. The winery opened to the public in 1870 and became the largest producer of champagne in the United States. Renault Winery remains the only winery in the U.S. that can use the title “Champagne.”

Renault was a vibrant winery until Prohibition hit in the 1920s. It survived the Prohibition era by obtaining licenses to produce sacramental wine as well as various medicinal wines, including “Renault Wine Tonic” which was sold by pharmacists across the U.S. (wink-wink). The winery is now a New Jersey State Historical site.

Renault was purchased in 2019 by VIVAMEE, a hospitality management and investment company, which began revitalizing the 1,400-acre site, including 48 acres of grapes, an 18-hole golf course, a 55-room hotel, two restaurants, and a tasting room. Antique wine producing and bottling machines, from the early days of the winery, are scattered like sculpture around the premises. A wine glass museum next to the tasting room contains 400 stunning pieces, with glasses that date back as far as the 13th century.

With gorgeous outside spaces and indoor ballrooms, Renault is becoming a premiere wedding destination. It is also an ideal venue to bring family and friends to spend a pandemic-safe afternoon sitting at outside tables, having a drink, and listening to some live music. There are ongoing renovations to their kitchen, and expansion of their menu options. Josh McCallen, CEO of VIVAMEE, has set the goal of supporting local purveyors and planting their own gardens, which will include the Jersey blueberries that grow so well in this south Jersey soil. Speaking of blueberries, Renault makes a blueberry champagne. It’s a lovely sparkler, not too sweet with a pleasing finish. We are looking forward to trying their other offerings on our next visit.

72 North Bremen Ave.
Egg Harbor City
609.965.2111
renaultwinery.com

 PORT REPUBLIC 

Photo by Kathleen Galante.

HONEY AND SWEETS FARM STAND

As you approach James and Heather Van Daley’s Honey and Sweets Farm, the vision is instantly of a good old-fashioned country stand stocked full of what is in season. There are overflowing buckets of fresh vegetables and potted flowers with greenhouses in the background. This mom-and- pop operation features a large variety of “Jersey Fresh” produce grown on the Van Daleys’ 10-acre farm with some items brought in from other area farms. The stand also offers local honey, jams, pickles, and canned tomatoes. The farm was started in 2005, by Jim (aka “Honey”). The couple’s skills are well-matched: Jim grows all the vegetable plants and produce; Heather (aka “Sweets”) grows all the annuals, herbs, and flowers for the hanging baskets.

The farm stand is open from mid-April through October 31, Wednesday–Sunday 9am–6pm. The harvest begins in mid-April with spring perennials and shrubs. May brings beautiful hanging baskets, bedding flats, and a variety of veggies all grown in the on-site greenhouses. Beginning in May, you will also find Honey and Sweets’ asparagus and incredible strawberries (well worth the trip). They are known for their harvest of pole lima beans, which usually starts in August. There is a BIG demand, so call ahead to reserve a share.

540 Chestnut Neck Rd. (Route 575)
Port Republic
609.652.6966

Gretchen Maxwell serving oysters on the half-shell at Maxwell’s. Photo courtesy of Maxwell's Shellfish..

A HIDDEN GEM SITTING NEXT TO A DOCK ON NACOTE CREEK NEAR PORT REPUBLIC, MAXWELL SHELLFISH IS JUST OFF ROUTE 9 ON A SANDY ROAD NEAR STOCKTON UNIVERSITY MARINE STATION.

MAXWELL SHELLFISH

A hidden gem sitting next to a dock on Nacote Creek near Port Republic, Maxwell Shellfish is just off Route 9 on a sandy road near Stockton University Marine Station. It is owned and operated by the Maxwell family, wholesale shellfish farmers who have worked these waters for six generations. The retail store was opened 15 years ago by Kim Maxwell.

In 1934, great-grandfather Curtis Maxwell of Mt. Gretna started managing oyster and clam beds in Oyster Creek (next to the Oyster Creek Inn) with his son, Donald (now 93 and still going out on the boat with his son, John). In 1987, John Maxwell moved the operation to its current location, where they lease areas for planting and cultivating shellfish in the Mullica River and the Great Bay. These days, Gretchen and Brigette (John and Kim’s daughters) help their dad tend the shellfish from their boat. Unlike other oyster ranchers on the New Jersey shore, they do not rely on hatchery-raised spat (baby oysters). The surviving wild oyster populations in the Mullica River Estuary allow the Maxwells to use the natural settling of oyster larvae onto shell in the river. They use the spat to seed the grow-out areas in the bay and harvest their oysters when they are 2 to 3 years old.

Kim, Brigette, and Gretchen run the retail side of the business. Gretchen does more of the marketing and ordering now, while Brigette is busy caring for her newborn daughter. The sisters enjoy connecting with the customers and are happy to educate those who are interested about all the varieties of fish they carry. Check their website for what is available weekly.

Maxwell Shellfish offers top-quality salmon and crab cakes, white and red clam chowders, clam pies, and seafood potpies made from scratch. Everything we have eaten from their shop has been of the highest quality, including fluke, flounder, halibut, monkfish, scallops, clams, and oysters. Their Graveling Point oysters, known for their distinctive salty sea taste, are found on many restaurant menus around the state.

The shop offers takeaway oysters and clams on the half shell, steamed shrimp and clams, and peel-and-eat shrimp. If you can’t wait to get them home, you can picnic at Maxwell’s outdoor tables by the scenic Nacote Creek. Guests are welcome to bring your own bottle and enjoy it al fresco. It does not get much better than this. They have outdoor shucking classes and other fun, post-Covid events planned.

22 Wilson Ave.
Port Republic
609.652.8589
maxwellshellfish.com

Photo courtesy of Kathleen Gallante for Edwin Forsythe NWR.

A BIRD WATCHING WONDERLAND

The Forsythe Refuge protects more than 47,000 acres of southern NJ coastal habitats. Located on one of the Atlantic Flyway’s most active migratory bird flight paths, the Refuge is a year-round wonderland for bird watchers. The numbers of birds and the variety of bird species is mind blowing.

I am in LOVE with the refuge! From our first visit over two years ago, we have returned at least three dozen times. On one visit during July, we identified over 24 different species of birds. You may also encounter bird watchers, photographers, hikers, boaters, and nature lovers enjoying all the refuge has to offer. While there, check out the visitors’ center and take the drive on the eight-mile loop of dirt road through the salt marshes. Bring your insect repellent for hiking and boating. Become a member; you will certainly come back.

Edwin Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
800 Great Creek Rd
Galloway
609.652.1665
fws.gov/refuge/Edwin_B_Forsythe/visit/plan_your_visit.html