Visit Frenchtown
When a road trip leads you to your destination by way of River Road, you know you’re in for a scenic treat.
Whether traveling along the Pennsylvania or New Jersey side, there are ample opportunities to glimpse the glistening Delaware River with its edges lined with oak, alder, and sycamore, where it’s common to spot ospreys or eagles surveying the scene for their next meal. Situated in Hunterdon County, the town received its name in the late 1700s when Swiss-born landowner Paul Henri Mallet-Provost moved to the area along with other early settlers who all spoke French—thus locals dubbed it Frenchtown.
These days, Frenchtown is in the midst of a major revival, with an active budding art scene anchored by ArtYard, a contemporary art and performance center that opened in May of last year. While this is bringing in a new wave of visitors, Frenchtown has enjoyed a huge underlying current of local hometown pride right from the start. From annual events like Bastille Day (honoring its Parisian roots), to River Fest, to the Frenchtown Mermaid Parade (where dozens of locals don their best scales and fins), it’s a town brimming with love for their river, community, and visitors alike.
While the main thoroughfare bustles along Bridge Street, Frenchtown is completely walkable— a great way to build up an appetite in between snacking and sipping throughout the day.
(top left) Bridge Cafe; (middle left) Cocina Del Sol; (bottom left) Rock Art Revival; (top right) Collectibles at Sublime; (middle right) Sunbeam General Store; (bottm right)Julie Klein of Lovin’ Oven
9am
Rise + Dine
Park in the lot to the left of the Uhlerstown-Frenchtown Bridge and head to Bridge Cafe, a renovated train station that can’t be missed with its colorful courtyard umbrellas to keep you cool as you sip a perfect cup of coffee, eat an orange-glazed donut, or savor a classic breakfast sandwich hot off the griddle. While there’s both indoor and outdoor dining, the bustling towpath (a scenic trail that runs parallel to the river from Trenton to just north of Frenchtown) makes a perfect spot for people watching.
For more of a sit-down yet casual breakfast, head to Frenchtown Cafe, where Bridge Street meets River Road. There you’ll find everything from scrumptious waffles and Linzer French toast, to eggs Florentine, to their Pickled Pig omelet with bacon and rich port wine cheddar.
10:30am
Shop + Stroll
At the bend where Bridge Street curves to become Race Street, duck into Heart of the Home where kitchenware and gift items abound. From colorful nature-themed handmade ceramics, to huge (like, really huge) pillar candles, cutting boards, and hand-carved wooden chopsticks—there are ample treasures to be found at this newly opened (August 2021) outpost of the New Hope, PA, shop well known for its commitment to American crafts.
Backtrack west and follow your ear (or maybe even dance your way) to Rock Art Revival, a shop totally dedicated to rock bands of yesteryear. As you step into the store and onto their huge record- shaped rug, you’ll be delightfully overwhelmed by everything music. From buttery-soft leather jackets, to band posters, to lava lamps, to a black light poster viewing nook—a visit to this shop will have you humming tunes all day long.
Switch from classic to modern by strolling to nearby Modern Love, where you may audibly “ooo” and ”ahh.” This shop has it all—from a shelf dedicated to the most adorable houseplants, to a wall of classy coffee accoutrements and French presses, or the center island display featuring wooden cutlery and cookbooks. In the back of the shop, there’s a room dedicated to children’s gifts, with cozy onesies with animal prints, and watermelon- and kale-shaped teething toys. Loop around the store to find wooden alarm clocks and books that open up into table lamps—it’s like a local MoMa design store, with price points anyone can love.
Look both ways before you cross the street over to The Junto Emporium, a masculine boutique featuring vintage gifts, apparel, and accessories. Pick up a complete cocktail kit, a pair of vintage denim jeans, or a bottle of beard oil for your burly man. “Every item in The Junto is unique and each has a story to tell,” says Kathleen Bernhardt, who owns the store with her husband, Karl. Visit their shop now, but follow their hilarious Instagram page later.
A few doors down, be sure to stop into Sublime, one of the newest gifts and collectibles outposts on Bridge Street. This well curated shop is a joyful mix of books, limited edition prints, tableware, posters, furnishings, socks, cards and more, all assembled with a touch of humor by owner, and “recovering librarian and magazine editor”, Renee Olson. Don’t miss the pair of Jack Kerouac’s pants in the window, standing in tribute to the 65th anniversary of the publication of the writer’s seminal novel, “On the Road”.
Meander back towards the river and over to Sunbeam General Store—which has nothing general about it. This funky, boho-vibe shop, owned by Hannah Opdyke and Ben Duensing, (both native to Frenchtown), has everything under the sun. From gemstones to outdoor gear (with lots of items specific to river extracurriculars), to gardening tools, attire, handmade soap, and mood rings, to a fantastic register display of candy by the pound—there’s treasure galore.
12pm
Lunch
After working up a hearty appetite, treat yourself to lunch at Lovin’ Oven. Sit inside under a living wall of bromeliads on chairs made from reclaimed Balinese fishing boats, or dine outside on their sunny patio. Plates often come with little added bonuses like slices of guava or a handful of juicy blackberries. Their sweet potato biscuits will change your life, as will their Baja fish tacos, loaded to the gills with battered and fried fish, avocado, cabbage, perfectly pickled red onions, and spicy special sauce. “We’re so lucky to have many farms nearby, growing their produce in the gorgeous river soil, that nourish people with the food we serve,” says owner Julie Klein. Pro tip: Save room for a slice of key lime pie or their famous chocolate caramel tart, topped with chunky Himalayan sea salt.
To continue the food fiesta, head to Cocina Del Sol, a Mexican restaurant that’s been a Frenchtown staple for years. From classic offerings like chiles rellenos (poblano peppers stuffed with meat or veggies, smothered in cheese and salsa), to tamales, and mole Oaxaca, you can’t go wrong. Dine inside or street-side, or grab a burrito to-go to enjoy on a picnic table along the river.
(top left) ArtYard; (top right) Early Bird Espresso and Mercantile; (bottom left) Gourmand Epicerie; (bottom right) D&R Canal tow path
2pm
Tour + Pour
Take a food timeout and head south on Front Street to feast your eyes on the latest exhibit at ArtYard. Founded by Jill Kearney and Stephen McDonnell, the mammoth building—resembling a big brick schoolhouse—welcomes you with a sculpture garden courtyard, three floors of exhibition space (with three secretly hidden mini galleries; finding them is like playing “I Spy”), and a state-of-the-art theater and performance space. Since opening its doors in spring 2021, ArtYard has become one of Frenchtown’s major cultural draws, and should be circled twice on your list.
After a solid session of art interpretation, enter through the sky-high French doors of Early Bird Espresso and Mercantile to fuel up with a cup of coffee or a delicious cortado. Sip from one of the many street-side benches, or if you’re lucky, try scoring the window seat to watch the rhythm of the town pass you by.
Put that buzz to use and scamper over to The Gourmand Epicerie, where you can do an olive oil tasting in between filling your cart with the most amazing selection of imported vinegars, crackers, pastas, and spreads to go with your cut-to-order cured meats and cheeses from the deli counter.
To be sure your appetite doesn’t disappoint for dinner, round the corner over the small Route 12 bridge and hang a left to Frenchtown Boro Park, where the sweetest nature trail takes you on a 20-minute loop along the Nishisakawick Creek.
For another breath of fresh air combined with river view, circle back on Bridge Street and walk across the bridge to the Pennsylvania side to look for carp in the water below. Once back on the New Jersey side, extend your stroll by turning left or right after the bridge to walk along the tow path. Or, to work up more of an appetite and see more of the river views, take a bike spin along the tow path. The trail provides easy family-friendly bicycling and a great afternoon outing.
6pm
Dinner
If you love a good old-timey classy bar and restaurant scene, The National Hotel, established in 1833, is a long-standing favorite. Its classic wooden bar, nestled amidst polished wooden pillars leading up to a pressed-tin ceiling, provides an ideal spot to sidle up for a Negroni or two along with some apps. There’s also the option of heading downstairs to the Rathskeller, the local watering hole, for a nightcap. If you’ve had too much, book a room and stay the night. [Editor’s note: The hotel was purchased by new owners just prior to press time. It is expected to be closed for painting and renovation until late Summer 2022].
Fortunately for the thirsty, the majority of restaurants in town are BYOB. If you forget to bring your own, Frenchtown Wine & Liquor is within easy walking distance and open seven days a week.
If you need a change from the downtown scene, head north (a solid walk or a short drive) up Harrison and 12th Street to Bamboo House, an inconspicuous spot whose full parking lot tells all. The scene is casual, but the sushi and Thai dishes are anything but. Dive in with a Thai green papaya salad, your favorite sushi selects, and of course the Frenchtown Roll—how could you not?
As you earmark your return visit, be sure to stay tuned to the happenings of the historic Frenchtown Inn, which, when this article was being written, was recently acquired by the ArtYard founders. Its kitchen will be the new home of culinary aficionados Christopher Hirsheimer and Melissa Hamilton, both James Beard Award–winning cookbook authors, cooks, and owners of Canal House Station upriver in Milford.
1 ARTYARD
13 Front St.
ArtYard.org
908.996.5018
2 BAMBOO HOUSE
31 12th St.
bamboohousenj.com
908.996.6689
3 BRIDGE CAFE
8 Bridge St.
bridgecafe.net
908.996.6040
4 COCINA DEL SOL
10 Bridge St.
cocina-del-sol.business.site
908.996.0900
5 EARLY BIRD CAFE AND MERCANTILE
33 Bridge St.
earlybirdespresso.com
908.628.3183
6 FRENCHTOWN CAFE
44 Bridge St.
thefrenchtowncafe.com
908.996.0663
7 FRENCHTOWN BORO PARK
Route 12 and Creek Road
8 THE FRENCHTOWN INN
7 Bridge St.
Note: Stay tuned for grand re-opening info.
9 FRENCHTOWN WINE & LIQUOR
19 Trenton Ave.
908.996.4000
10 THE GOURMAND EPICERIE
16 Race St.
thegourmandepicerie.com
908.628.9344
11 HEART OF THE HOME
33 Race St.
heartofthehome.com
908.628.0347
12 THE JUNTO EMPORIUM
26 Bridge St. j
untoemporium.ecwid.com
908.996.0558
13 LOVIN’ OVEN
62 A Trenton Ave.
lovinovenfrenchtown.com
908.996.7714
14 MODERN LOVE
39 Bridge St.
shopmodernlove.com
908.996.3387
15 THE NATIONAL HOTEL
31 Race St.
thenationalhotelnj.com
908.996.3200
[Expected to be closed for renovation until late summer 2022]
16 ROCK ART REVIVAL
41 Bridge St.
rockartrevival.com
908.628.9330
17 SUBLIME
22 Bridge St.
sublimeandtonic.com
917.767.4251
18 SUNBEAM GENERAL STORE
10 Bridge St.
sunbeamgeneral.com
908.996.0101
