On the Road to Montclair
(left)White Rabbit Black Heart; (right)Van Hook Cheese
Less than 20 miles west of Manhattan stands New Jersey’s bustling town of Montclair. Nearly 40,000 people call this six-square-mile space home, but the friendly faces and mom-and-pop shops make you feel like you belong from the moment you cross the town line.
Growing up, day trips to Montclair were few and far between for me. It wasn’t until a few family members moved there, and I started a college job in a nearby town, that I realized this North Jersey gem was worthy of far more than a twice-per-year visit. Cruising east down Bloomfield Avenue, I still feel a pang of excitement as I view the town from the top of the hill; I can almost hear the hustle of shoppers and laughter of friends before even securing my parking spot in the Crescent Deck.
Montclair’s culture and diversity are visible through its countless restaurants and shops, but the town’s art scene and deep history are two elements that can’t be overlooked. With several galleries and an art museum, plus a historical center, a jazz festival, and guided tours, the town wants you to understand where it came from—and where it’s going.
Unbeknownst to me at a young age, Montclair Center, as the downtown area is known, isn’t the only part worth exploring. My love for cooking in my early 20s led me to seek out my nearest Williams Sonoma, and I suddenly found myself in the center of Upper Montclair, a lively but quieter version of its Bloomfield Avenue counterpart. It holds the same sense of neighborhood comfort (maybe even a bit more so), and there is no shortage of areas to enjoy.
If you spend a day with friends or family in either section, or if you just want to take a solo trip, I promise that with each visit—and each discovery of something new—your appreciation for the area will only grow. While it’s a drive between Center and Upper, once in either neighborhood you won’t need to step into your car until you’re headed home—with bags full of local goods, bellies full of worldly food, and a heart full of new experiences.
(upper left)Java Love; (lower left)The Corner, photograph: Julia Mullaney; (upper right)owner Carl Chastain of Van Hook Cheese; (lower right)Rabble Rise Donuts, photograph: Julia Mullaney; Gift Bar
9 am
If you need a morning pick-me-up, stop into one of Montclair’s unique, cozy coffee shops. Paper Plane Coffee Co. recently opened a brand new, expanded space with adorable airplane-style seating, where guests can relax and sip on a Root Brew (a root beer and cold brew combo) or a Rusky—a spin on a Moscow mule that subs vodka with espresso. (Added plus: The Montclair Farmers’ Market, open every Saturday morning starting at 8am, is a short half-mile walk away.) Java Love Coffee Roasting Co., another sweet choice, has locations in Montclair Center and Upper Montclair, each with a relaxing atmosphere, a welcoming staff, and a series of seasonal barista drinks.
10 am
After your coffee fix, sit down at one of Montclair’s countless breakfast spots. So many are worth visiting, but The Corner quickly became an icon upon opening back in 2015. Its casual and warm interior makes it the perfect gathering place, and there is an abundance of toast options including avocado, prosciutto & ricotta, smoked salmon, and several others. Of course, you also can’t go wrong with a comfort classic like berry pancakes or one of their hearty omelets, made your way.
Minia’s, which opened in 2021 after getting its start in Bloomfield, blends breakfast with traditional dishes from the Dominican Republic and Uruguay. Order their Caribbean-style oatmeal, empanadas, or mangu, which is a Dominican breakfast made with mashed plantains and sautéed red onions.
11:30 am
Any Montclair visit should include the Montclair Art Museum. A space for adults and kids alike, MAM showcases both American and Native American works of art. Stroll past gorgeous paintings, eclectic photography, and one-of-a-kind sculptures, and learn about each one as you take in its beauty. The exhibits regularly change, with some on display for a few months while others remain for more than year, meaning you’ll come across something new with each visit. Classes and events are held as well, such as a Wine and Wheel pottery course for adults (no art skill required!), and educational hands-on programs for kids.
12:30 pm
Montclair has a store for everyone, so reserve ample time for shopping—you’ll need it. Gourmet food shops abound and, once again, there is something for every palate. Your favorite donut lover will thank you for picking up a few to go from Rabble Rise Donuts. Van Hook Cheese & Grocery on Grove Street, with its incredible selection of domestic and international cheeses, is a cheese aficionado’s dream come true. Pair your selections with artisanal meats, pates and pickled vegetables from nearby Butler and the Board to create the ultimate charcuterie board.
Though the town has its share of well-known brands (and while it’s not a small business, the Anthropologie in Montclair Center is a must-visit), the streets are lined with plenty of independent small businesses. If you’re looking for a gift for anyone, Giftbar is full of cards, candy, games, and plenty of accessories; White Rabbit Black Heart sells items made by U.S. artists, along with vintage housewares, eclectic jewelry, and other finds. Peruse thousands of books at the Montclair Book Center or explore various clothing stores, including Monty and Oasis; some are pricier than others, but there is a store for any style.
(upper left) Mexican Bowl at Raymond’s; (lower left)Chai Bye cocktail at Faubourg; (right)Bloomfield Avenue storefronts
2 pm
If you plan your timing well in Montclair Center, your shopping trip on Church Street will wind up right in front of two of Montclair’s best lunch spots: Raymond’s and Café Giotto. Raymond’s is a casual, diner-style spot that has been a Montclair staple for more than 30 years. The corned beef sandwich and turkey club are hard to beat, and definitely pair your order with a side of macaroni and cheese. For a sweet treat, finish with a hot chocolate—we promise you’ve never seen a marshmallow that big.
Café Giotto has a more rustic Italian feel, and its menu reflects that. The housemade pasta is light and fresh, and the café has a dozen panini choices, though I recommend trying the Italian ham or bresaola. Café Giotto is BYOB, a situation easily remedied by a quick stop into Amanti Vino, located directly opposite the restaurant on Church Street.
3:30 pm
There is so much beauty in Montclair’s nature and culture, and you can experience it rain or shine. Spring is the perfect time to explore the grounds of the Van Vleck House & Gardens, set on six acres; visitors can take in the trees and plants coming back to life after a long winter. The gardens are open dawn to dusk daily, and visitors can also learn about the Van Vleck House’s rich history—it’s more than 150 years old. For plenty of green space, head up to Edgemont Park and relax on a bench beside the pond.
For a day inside, discover more of Montclair’s history through the Nathaniel Crane House and the Crane House/Historic YWCA. Both buildings are more than 200 years old and paint a strong picture of Montclair’s history from Civil War times to Civil Rights struggles. Guided tours of the buildings are offered throughout the week; guests can book private tours as well.
5:30 pm
Montclair has endless places for the perfect happy hour cocktail. While you’re likely to enjoy a good drink almost anywhere, Faubourg is one of Montclair’s biggest names right now—and has been since it opened in 2018. With more than a dozen seasonal signature drinks, this French-inspired, upscale-casual eatery has both an indoor and outdoor bar to satisfy any environment you’re craving. Farther up the road, Pharmacie Bar & Kitchen is a cozier spot with a perfect blend of city-meets-neighborhood bar. It’s also a great pre-show stop if you’re catching an event at the nearby Wellmont Theater.
Those seeking a great brew should venture to Montclair Brewery. Launched in 2018, it brought a much-needed brewery to Montclair; it offers an ever-rotating tap list of its own beers, plus plenty of indoor and outdoor (dog-friendly) seating.
(upper left)Samba’s, photograph: Julia Mullaney; (lower left)Sweet Kitchen; (right)chef/owner Olivier Muller of Faubourg
7 pm
Of all the decisions to make during your visit, dinner will be the hardest. Montclair’s culture nourishes its cuisine, and you’d likely have a tougher time finding a type of fare that isn’t served in this city.
Explore Mesob’s Ethiopian dishes, made with imported spices and designed to be shared. The interior brings warm colors and pays homage to the African country with its art and decor. As for the menu, the Ingudai Tibs is a tantalizing vegetarian dish of marinated mushrooms prepared to your desired spice level. For a meat-based option, try the Minchet Abish, a beef dish that can be ordered Alicha (mild) or Kay Wet (spicy). Or visit Samba, a Brazilian spot—if you like shrimp, you absolutely must order the Camarao na Moranga, an acorn squash carved out and stuffed with butternut squash, shrimp, fresh herbs, and Parmesan (it’s one of the best dishes I’ve ever had). Plus, Samba’s menu is entirely gluten-free.
If you’re more in the mood for kid-comfort-casual, head to Ruthie’s BBQ and Pizza, a beloved neighborhood mainstay on the corner of Chestnut and Forest Streets. Expect live blues on weekends; as the weather gets warmer, snag a table on the garden patio, soak in the music and enjoy some of the best barbecue in town.
A remarkable number of new restaurants have opened in Montclair over the past year, joining long-time dining favorites such as Fascino. The acclaimed Japanese restaurant Nami Nori opened on South Willow Street last fall. In January, Jiang-Nan arrived on Bloomfield Avenue after garnering a Michelin recommendation for its Chinese fusion cuisine at locations in Flushing/Queens, Manhattan, and Jersey City.
For a unique blend of Japanese and Italian, known as Wafu cuisine, visit PastaRAMEN; it’s the newest venture from James Beard-nominated chef Robbie Felice.
“I told myself I wouldn’t open another restaurant in New Jersey, but here I am opening my third,” Felice says, referring to his award-winning Viaggio in Wayne and Osteria Crescendo in Westwood. “Montclair is the restaurant capital of New Jersey, so there is no place I’d rather be opening the first PastaRAMEN brick-and-mortar.” Felice takes Japanese tradition and blends it with Italian flair for a menu you certainly won’t find elsewhere in town.
9 pm
Late night in Montclair brings two options: You can wind down with dessert or wind up with live music. After a long day of exploring, shopping, and dining, if you prefer to top off your night by visiting a quaint dessert spot, Benvenuti offers authentic Italian gelato with flavors like salted caramel and espresso stracciatella, plus plenty of specialty pastries. Or stop into Sweet Kitchen, which offers plenty of cakes and desserts, including tiramisu and sticky toffee pudding, in addition to its full-service menu. (Both are open until 10pm on weekends but close earlier during the week.)
If it’s a weekend and you’ve caught that second wind, head to Just Jake’s to enjoy drinks and a local band. It’s a casual, upbeat vibe with good music and affordable cocktails, and there are typically two acts: one earlier and one late-night; the latter often pulls a bigger crowd.
(left)Moss & More; (right)Vesta Chocolate
UPPER MONTCLAIR
A short drive from Montclair Center, Upper Montclair offers its own unique array of good food and shopping, along with a touch of small-town charm. Here, a few recommendations:
MORNING:
Once again, Java Love is a good place to start. Co-founders Jodie Dawson and Kristine-Ellis Petrik opened their first New Jersey outpost here on Bellevue Avenue in 2014 (followed by their Church Street location in 2016). The inviting coffee shop, located at the heart of Upper Montclair, has been a town mainstay ever since.
“We live in Montclair with our two daughters,” says Dawson, “and wanted to be a part of the special small business community in our town and give back to the community that has given us so much.”
Sit and plan your day over an iced cold brew at Java Love or, if you’re in the mood for a hearty breakfast, Upper Montclair’s Coffee & Cornbread is a coffee-shop-meets-breakfast-stop, and one of the few places I’m aware of with fish and grits on the menu—if you’re there, don’t skip it.
AFTERNOON:
If you’re spending the afternoon touring Upper Montclair, visit Moss + More for all things plants, including gorgeous plant pots and gardening gifts. Shop clothing and accessories at Nouvelle, and for the perfect host or hostess gift, step into Pink Bungalow. Ready for lunch? On Valley Road, Jackie’s Grillette is a cozy, no-frills lunch spot with a must-try chicken shawarma and Greek wrap.
For a mid-afternoon break, drop in to Vesta Chocolate where Roger Rodriguez and Julia Choi-Rodriguez have been raising the bar for bean-to-bar confections since opening in early 2020 [see Edible Jersey, Holiday 2021]. Sit and enjoy a cup of their rich, indulgent hot cocoa; after one sip, you’ll want to purchase some mix to take home, too. The shop is located in a former bank building and its jewellike chocolates look worthy of safekeeping in the site’s formidable vault. Tip: Don’t miss the cacao sea-salt brownies.
EVENING:
Upper Montclair offers a variety of dining choices all its own. Marcel Bakery and Kitchen (formerly MishMish) is the perfect place for an early dinner and authentic Mediterranean cuisine—the shakshuka bowl is robust and hearty. No matter what you order, chef Meny Vaknin’s Moroccan-inspired talent shines through the flavors and spices of each dish.
You can also enjoy American comfort at Turtle + The Wolf, or branch out into Thai at Sla Thai, Turkish at Toros, or Syrian at Le Souk. If you visit the latter, make sure to browse the gift section on your way out.
UPPER MONTCLAIR
Coffee & Cornbread
38 Upper Montclair Plaza
coffeeandcornbread.com
201.862.0600
Jackie’s Grillette
614 Valley Rd.
jackiesgrilletteonline.com
973.744.0090
Java Love
244 Bellevue Ave.
javaloveroasters.com
973.744.2122
Le Souk
51 Watchung Plaza
lesoukmontclair.com
973.707.2333
Marcel
631½ Valley Rd.
marcelbakeryandkitchen.com
973.842.4086
Moss + More
42 Upper Montclair Plaza
mossandmore.com
973.744.0189
Nouvelle
629B Valley Rd.
nouvelleboutiques.com
973.744.0053
Pink Bungalow
211 Bellevue Ave.
thepinkbungalow.com
973.337.5371
Sla Thai
596 Valley Rd.
facebook.com/slathai
973.509.0111
Toros
596 Valley Rd.
torosrestaurant.com
973.707.7651
Turtle + The Wolf
622 Valley Rd.
turtleandthewolf.com
973.783.9800
Vesta Chocolate
598 Valley Rd.
vestachocolate.com
973.860.7136
MONTCLAIR CENTER
Amanti Vino
30 Church St.
montclair.amantivino.com
973.509.9463
Benvenuti
20 Church St.
benvenutimontclair.com
973.707.5792
Butler and the Board
103 Forest St.
butlerandtheboard.com
Café Giotto
42 Church St.
cafegiotto.com
973.746.0111
The Corner
115 Grove St. (corner of Walnut)
thecornermontclair.com
973.783.2400
Edgemont Park
Valley Rd. & Edgemont Rd.
Fascino
331 Bloomfield Ave.
fascinorestaurant.com
973.233.0350
Faubourg
544 Bloomfield Ave.
faubourgmontclair.com
973.542.7700
Gift bar
465 Bloomfield Ave.
shopgiftbar.com
973.746.8100
Java Love
49 Church St.
javaloveroasters.com
973.744.2323
Jiang-Nan
379 Bloomfi eld Ave.
jiangnanny.com
973.783.3334
973.783.3335
Just Jake’s
30 Park St.
justjakes.com
973.655.8987
Mesob
515 Bloomfi eld Ave.
mesobrestaurant.com
973.655.9000
973.655.9099
Minia’s
22 Lackawanna Plaza
miniasbreakfastandlunch.com
973.434.0535
973.434.0516
Montclair Art Museum
3 S. Mountain Ave.
montclairartmuseum.org
973.746.5555
Montclair Book Center
221 Glenridge Ave.
montclairbookcenter.com
973.783.3630
Montclair Brewery
101 Walnut St.
montclairbrewery.com
973.850.0541
Montclair Farmers’ Market
86 Walnut Street (at train station)
Saturday, year ’round, starting 8am
montclairfarmersmarket.org
Monty
12 N. Willow St.
shopmonty.com
973.655.0690
Nami Nori
378 Bloomfi eld Ave.
naminori.nyc/montclair
201.292.1445
Nathaniel Crane House | Crane House/Historic YWCA
108-110 Orange Rd.
montclairhistory.org
973.744.1796
Oasis
40 Church St.
oasisclothingstore.com
973.655.0090
Paper Plane Coffee Co.
61 N. Fullerton Ave.
paperplanecoffee.com
973.746.2739
Pasta Ramen
6 S. Fullerton Ave.
pastaramen.com
Pharmacie Bar & Kitchen
398 Bloomfi eld Ave.
pharmaciebar.com
973.968.5303
Rabble Rise Donuts
16 Label St.
rabblerise.com
973.509.2525
Raymond’s
28 Church St.
raymondsnj.com
973.744.9263
Ruthie’s BBQ and Pizza
64½ Chestnut St.
ruthiesbbq.com
973.509.1134
Samba
7 Park St.
sambamontclair.com
973.744.6764
Sweet Kitchen
533 Bloomfi eld Ave.
sweetkitchenmontclair.com
973.707.2667
Van Hook Cheese Shop
111 Grove St.
vanhookcheese.com
973.830.2676
Van Vleck House & Gardens
21 Van Vleck St.
montclairfoundation.org
973.744.4752
Wellmont Theater
5 Seymour St.
wellmonttheater.com
973.783.9500
White Rabbit Black Heart
219 Glenridge Ave.
whiterabbitblackheart.com
973.746.4200
