The New Milky Way: New Jersey Cheese Shops and Artisans
A LIMITED NUMBER OF SMALL, OFTEN FAMILY-RUN DAIRIES HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED OVER THE PAST TWO DECADES AND ARE THRIVING, BUOYED BY THE LOCAL FOOD MOVEMENT AND OPPORTUNITIES TO SELL DIRECTLY TO CONSUMERS AT FARMERS’ MARKETS.
A great cheese shop is about so much more than simply cheese. At their best, cheese shops are hubs of community. They’re spaces where patrons can fall in love with new flavors, discover local producers, pick out a meaningful gift, embark on a culinary education, and forge genuine neighborhood connections. “In an age of online retail and so many options for what we can spend our money on, people love being able to walk into a physical space and be thoughtfully served,” says Leigh Friend, owner of two New Jersey cheese shops: Maplewood Wheelhouse and South Orange Wheelhouse. “We are essentially welcoming people into our homes and feeding them.”
A Cheese Shop Renaissance
New Jersey’s dairy industry has been on the decline for decades, thanks to a mix of legislative hurdles, massive industry consolidation, and political and public welfare forces. Along with disappearing dairy farms, many cheese specialty shops—once a downtown mainstay—have faded away. But a limited number of small, often family-run dairies have been established over the past two decades and are thriving, buoyed by the local food movement and opportunities to sell directly to consumers at farmers’ markets.
So, too, is the return of wonderfully varied cheese shops, where customers can browse, taste, and take home buttons of chevre and slivers of majestic Alpine wheels from legacy producers in Europe as well as local cheesemakers down the road.
This was the case for Meredith Hyland, who met her husband Brahim Sadouni 16 years ago on a business trip to Paris. They fell in love, and she worked as a banker in France before the couple moved back to her home-town of Clinton. “We spent so much of our time in cheese shops in Paris and wanted to bring some of that to New Jersey,” Hyland remembers. “We wrote a business plan and put it in a drawer. Two years later, we were having lunch in downtown Clinton and a magnificent building had a ‘for rent’ sign—so we opened our shop in January 2013.” Fourchette was born.
Fourchette is a sort of prototype for a charming cheese shop. It’s in a historic downtown, in a lovely storefront with a curated selection of cheeses, plus gorgeous homewares with which to serve them. You might pick up a wedge of the crowd-pleasing Lamb Chopper, a smooth sheep-milk Gouda from Cypress Grove in California; or a piece of creamy, buttery Melinda Mae from Mystic, Connecticut, a cheese inspired by a Shel Silverstein poem about a little girl who eats a whale. Maybe you’ll splurge on a 100% French linen tablecloth decorated in cherry blossoms on which to enjoy your cheese, and a bag of taralli crackers from Puglia to serve with your spread.
Unlike the others, Hyland doesn’t prioritize local goods. “We skew more French both in our cheese selection and in our home decor and linens,” she says. “Our brand is about bringing a slice of Europe to New Jersey.”
Either way, you’ll find good conversations and a deeply personal experience. “We live around the corner from our shop in Clinton, and we know everyone in town,” says Hyland. “People joke that my husband is the town’s social mayor. We live in the community and we care about the community.” Now Fourchette has locations in Red Bank and Long Beach Island—and, in 2020, Hyland quit her day job to run the shops full time. You might find her sharing samples of a peppery Greek olive oil or making sure the tote bag display is perfect.
Bayhead Cheese Shop & Bottles, Too in Bay Head - PHOTOGRAPH: NANCY PAINTER
Van Hook Cheese & Grocery in Montclair
A Celebration of Local Cheesemakers
Many of the new breed of cheese shops are a destination to find local, artisanal products and a place for customers to learn about what’s new and exciting in their own backyard.
Carl Chastain opened Van Hook Cheese & Grocery in summer of 2016. The cut-to-order cheese shop in Jersey City “was really well received in the neighborhood; people immediately understood what we were doing,” he remembers. “Friends and neighbors were used to specialized shopping—maybe going to a farmers’ market for produce or a butcher for meat—so we didn’t need to introduce the concept of an artisan cheese shop.” Locals immediately embraced his shop, which is stocked with about 75 domestic and international cheeses, from Baron Bigod—a vegetal, buttery Brie-style cheese from British cheesemaker Fen Farm Dairy—to Wild Rosemary, a supple, mixed-milk cheese coated in rosemary and olive oil, made by Goat Rodeo outside Pittsburgh.
With a background in local wholesale food distribution, Chastain delighted in introducing his neighbors to regional cheeses. They were often surprised by the quality and selection, especially of New Jersey offerings. “I’d put cheeses in front of chefs, and they couldn’t believe they were made in Princeton,” Chastain says. He’s especially fond of the selection from Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrence Township, whose flavors reflect the seasons and the unique terroir of their farm. “They’re an eye-opener for people who haven’t considered that artisan cheesemakers are doing great things in our state,” reflects Chastain.
His shop sells both European classics and domestic goodies. “We didn’t want to not offer Manchego, or Gruyere from Switzerland, or bandaged cheddar from England,” Chastain explains. At the same time, Van Hook maintains “a constant focus on local producers; we always give them the right of first refusal before looking at an imported version.” In 2021, Van Hook expanded to an even larger space in Montclair. Both shops sell grilled cheese sandwiches, with additions like Mike’s Hot Honey, made in Brooklyn, and smoked duck breast.
Friend also prioritizes spotlighting New Jersey cheeses. One of her favorites is jibneh from Kasbo’s Market (a cheesemaker, not a market), a Syrian-style cheese crafted by Benita Kasbo in Madison. It’s made from curd seasoned with salt and mahleb, a spice made from the seeds of cherry stones. Mahleb gives the snackable cheese a distinctively sweet, nutty depth that is extra delicious melted on pita and sprinkled with za’atar, a Levantine spice mixture.
Another local producer Friend features in her shops is Riverine Ranch, a water buffalo farm and creamery in Asbury. Their ricotta and labneh (a strained yogurt cheese) are favorites, with a fresh, milky richness that comes from super-fresh water buffalo milk.
“We’ve been meeting so many local cheese-makers,” says Friend. “They’ve been coming out of the woodwork.”
With a background as a pastry chef, Friend believes her work is based in “hospitality and welcoming people through food.” Through her shops, she shares “the stories behind the cheese and supports the livelihoods of the people who make them—it’s a humbling, human experience. We are supporting our farmers and supporting Mother Earth,” as local cheesemakers tend to share a deep commitment to sustainability.
Fourchette in Clinton
Challenges in a Difficult Economy
But owners and shoppers alike are experiencing a challenge: artisan cheeses are expensive to produce, margins are uncomfortably slim, and many cheeses are considered a splurge. “People’s budgets for food are strained these days. Money just isn’t going as far,” says Chastain. “Business has been a roller coaster.”
Friend believes that “cheese can have an air of being expensive, and it is, but not every individual product has to be.” Her shop seeks to be accessible to all with items like butter, mozzarella, and feta at a more budget-friendly price point. She suggests treating cheeses like they are—a treat—and splurging for small pieces to mix in with your everyday grocery store haul. “Cheese is for everyone,” Friend says.
What is terrior?
Terroir, usually a wine term, refers to the taste and flavor imparted to a wine by the place where it is made. It can encompass everything from the soil and climate to the techniques and traditions. Terroir also applies to cheese, which takes on its character from the land, starting with the pasture where the cows, goats, or sheep graze.—H.H.
NEW JERSEY CHEESE DESTINATIONS
One of the best parts of visiting a cheese shop is getting access to the deep knowledge and passion of the purveyors; they have insight into what’s seasonal, special, or just unusually tasty. “They could make more money as a bartender, but they’re doing this because they love cheese,” says Chastain. If you ask your local cheesemonger what they’re excited about, “they’re going to hook you up with something eye-opening and delicious.” Here are some highly delicious finds at New Jersey’s finest cheese shops. —H.H.
BAY HEAD CHEESE SHOP & BOTTLES, TOO
91 Bridge Ave., Bay Head
732.892.7585
bayheadcheeseshopandbottlestoo.com
Local recommendation: Nimbus, a decadent triple cream from Chaseholm Farm Creamery in Pine Plains, New York. Another popular selection is Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrenceville, NJ.
Regional recommendation: Prufrock, an organic, washed-rind cheese made at Grey Barn on Martha’s Vineyard. Its orange rind gives way to a supple, just-stinky-enough interior that’s brilliant with rosé.
CHEESE ETC & GOURMET GIFTS
SOHA Arts Building
1001 White Horse Pike, Haddon Township
856.858.1144
cheeseetc.com
Local Recommendation: Cherry Grove Farm farmstead cheeses. Plus, their own house-crafted gourmet spreads made with local ingredients, including Jersey Devil Port Wine, Fig & Gorgonzola, Lavender Honey Goat, and Blueberry Goat.
International Pick: Prima Donna, Manchego, English Stilton and other popular varieties featured in World of Cheese Gift Box.
THE CHEESE SHOP & CAPE MAY CREAMERY, CAPE MAY
304 Washington St., Cape May
609.305.4080
capemaycheese.com
Local recommendation: Zippy, aged Horseradish Cheddar from Yancey’s Fancy New York’s Artisan Cheese.
Noteworthy: Blake Hill’s Spiced Plum with Port preserves from Vermont. These nuanced, juicy jams are especially formulated to pair beautifully with cheeses, and this one is gorgeous with a blue like Bayley Hazen or Gorgonzola Dulce.
FOURCHETTE, CLINTON, BEACH HAVEN AND RED BANK
36 Main St., Clinton
908.442.8675
511 N. Bay Ave., Beach Haven
609.991.2451
132 Broad St., Red Bank
732.268.7928
Local(ish) recommendation: Harbison, a funky, woodsy, spoonable treat from Vermont’s Jasper Hill.
International pick: The Screamer, a triple-crème cow-milk cheese made in Switzerland with a mushroomy, buttery depth that is hard to resist, especially with Champagne.
JERSEY ARTISAN CO.
6 Littell Rd. Unit 4B, East Hanover
jerseyartisan.com
Local recommendation: Scamorza, a traditional Italian cheese made with milk from Spring Run Dairy in Pittstown. The sweet flavor of fresh milk shines through.
Noteworthy: Artisanal breads made with NJ’s River Valley Community Grain
MAPLEWOOD WHEELHOUSE & SOUTH ORANGE WHEELHOUSE
1875 Springfield Ave., Maplewood
973.250.6160
Inside The CoLab
57 S. Orange Ave., South Orange
908.752.7134
Local recommendation: Their own house-made, milky, fresh-pulled mozzarella.
International pick: Tete de Moine Flowers. Tete de Moine is a raw cow-milk cheese from Switzerland’s Jura Mountains that’s been made for over 800 years. Friend and her staff shave it into delicate flowers with a special machine called a griolle, releasing a sweet, nutty richness.
SAVOUR
37 N. Union St., Lambertville
609.397.1930
@savourlambertville on Instagram
Local recommendation: Spreadable, herb-infused Gorgeous Goat chevre from Stockton.
Regional recommendation: Blue Moon, a sweet, mild goat-milk blue made by First Light Creamery in the Finger Lakes region of New York.
THE SUMMIT CHEESE SHOPPE AND THE MADISON CHEESE SHOPPE
75 Union Pl., Summit
908.608.8898
36 Main St. #3, Madison
973.307.9366
Local recommendation: Ramapaugh, a mixed-milk, Basque-style cheese from New Jersey’s Valley Shepherd Creamery that’s been rubbed in olive oil as it ages.
Noteworthy: Smoking Goose Meaty Soppressata. Fragrant with clove, nutmeg, ginger, and black pepper, this salami from humanely raised pork is crafted in Indiana and a welcome addition to any cheese and charcuterie board.
VAN HOOK CHEESE & GROCERY, MONTCLAIR AND JERSEY CITY
528 Jersey Ave., Jersey City
201.433.2600
111 Grove St., Montclair
973.830.2676
Local recommendation: Havilah, a seasonal Alpine-style wheel from Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrence Township, with notes of hazelnuts and wildflowers.
International pick: Paški Sir, Croatian cheese made on the tiny island of Pag, with milk from an indigenous breed of sheep called Paška Ovca. Notes of salty ocean and butterscotch make it sing.
left: At the Princeton Farmers’s Market; right, Trilby, 2024 Good Food Award Winner, a cheese washed in Dad’s Hat Rye Whiskey and wrapped in a fig leaf.
Say Cheese
Cherry Grove Farm is one of many New Jersey farms now making cheese
Cherry Grove Farm in Lawrenceville Township has been in operation for more than a century under the direction of the Hamill family, who purchased the farm in 1902. One hundred years later, in 2002, they began making and selling cheese; today their many handcrafted varieties include Havilah, Buttercup Brie, Toma, and more. In 2024, Cherry Grove received a prestigious Good Food Award for their Trilby, a cheese washed in Dad’s Hat Rye Whisky and wrapped in a fig leaf.
Cherry Grove is one of many NJ farms who are expanding into cheesemaking. Paul Lawler, Cherry Grove’s head cheesemaker, has seen interest in local cheese rise continuously over the past two decades.
“There are more and more folks seeking out and supporting local and hyper-seasonal flavors—people who are willing to hear about how certain cheeses are available at certain moments, that flavors have seasons based on the land,” he says. “Folks who love food and agriculture in their own backyard have an overlap, and those folks willing to seek out quality and eschew the grocery counters are increasing every year.”
Trish Steeten, the farm’s education and event coordinator, agrees. “Vegetables and CSAs [community-supported agriculture harvest subscription programs] have grown tremendously in the past two decades and now people want to have more of their other foods, such as cheese, directly from local farms or markets. Cheese and milk products are the next stage.”
In addition to selling their cheese at farmers’ markets, their on-farm market, online, and at select retailers, Cherry Grove also hosts a variety of events at the farm, including wine and cheese pairings.—N. Painter
Cherry Grove Farm
3200 Lawrenceville Rd, Lawrenceville
609.895.1502 • cherrygrovefarm.com
PAIRING RECOMMENDATION:
Our Havilah cheese with Unionville’s Silver Lining Cabernet Franc. I also love their port with our Rarebird.” —Tish, Education and Events Coordinator, Cherry Grove Farm
ON-FARM SHOPS
These excellent New Jersey cheesemakers make delicious cheese while preserving the health of their land and their herds and enriching their communities. Luckily for us, they also have farm shops where locals and visitors can take home a taste of their farm. Many are also onsite at weekly community farmers markets. —H.H.
BOBOLINK DAIRY & BAKEHOUSE, MILFORD
cowsoutside.com
♥ Drumm, a semi-soft, crumbly wheel reminiscent of grass, earth, and springtime sun.
CHERRY GROVE FARM, LAWRENCE TOWNSHIP
cherrygrovefarm.com
♥ Trilby is a gooey stunner, washed in local Dad’s Hat Rye Whiskey as it matures, and wrapped in fig leaves from their farm.
GORGEOUS GOAT CREAMERY, STOCKTON
gorgeousgoat.com
♥ Herbed chevre, made with their own aromatic herbs and fresh-as-it-gets goat milk, which comes in spreadable form for topping bagels, crackers, and crusty baguettes, or for dipping crudité.
JERSEY GIRL CHEESE, BRANCHVILLE (FARM STORE) AND ROCKAWAY (CHEESE SHOP)
jerseygirlcheese-llc.com
♥ Their burrata, a luxuriously gooey ball of creamy stracciatella encased in milky mozzarella. Ideal for savoring with grilled peaches or juicy tomatoes.
MISTY MEADOW SHEEP DAIRY, PETERSBURG
mistymeadowsheepdairy.com
♥ Ewe Dill Feta, with a fresh, herby punch that shines in salads.
VALLEY SHEPHERD CREAMERY, LONG VALLEY
valleyshepherd.com
♥ Nettlesome, a traditional Gouda crafted with nettles for a meaty texture and vegetal flavor that’s great for munching with apple slices and crusty bread.
♥ = Cheese find we love
