“MY FAMILY WAS NOT LEAVE IT TO BEAVER BY ANY STRETCH, BUT THE KITCHEN WAS THE SAFEST, HAPPIEST PLACE IN THE WORLD.”
PHOTOS: SUN JACKSON
“One of my earliest memories is of peering over the edge of the kitchen table to watch my grandmother roll out sheets of pasta dough,” says Jolynn DeLoach, the creator of In My Grand-mother’s Kitchen, aptly named after those childhood memories. She explains that most of her elders were Italian immigrants, and they were all great cooks.
“I lived within walking distance of both sets of grandparents, and when I visited, all the ‘old women’—who were probably actually much younger than I am now—would be in the kitchen making gnocchi together, ravioli, or something special.” She adds that every Sunday her uncle would make pasta and “gravy”—his tomato and meat sauce, with “like, 15 different types of meat” including meatballs, pork, and veal. DeLoach smiles as she continues to reflect on the kitchen and the meals. “My family was not Leave It to Beaver by any stretch, but the kitchen was the safest, happiest place in the world.”
DeLoach’s grandparents never formally taught her how to cook, but she keeps their binders of handwritten recipes—many of which are written in Italian—as some of her most-prized possessions. “I just learned by watching,” she says.
DeLoach brings her memories and recipes to her classes, which she teaches from home in Merchantville. For her Pasta 101 & Stuffed Pasta classes, a long rectangular table fills her sunny porch, each place set with a wooden board and rolling pin so students can mix flour with eggs and roll out the dough. She shares tips from her grandparents, such as “Knead the pasta dough until it feels soft like a baby’s bottom.” When rolling out the dough for ravioli or tortellini, she adds, “My grandmother would roll the dough thin until you see the grain of the wood board under-neath—that’s how you know it’s ready.”
DeLoach only teaches on Sundays and works as a forensic nurse during the week. “I do exams on people who’ve been sexually assaulted, so this is a good counterpoint for me,” she says. “This [showing others how to cook] is something I always did organically with my kids, neighbors, and friends.” One day in 2014, after a particularly hard day at work, her daughters encouraged her to spread the joy of cooking to others, and her new business was born.
Each of DeLoach’s classes ends around the table, where she and her students share the meal they’ve prepared. She says the dinners are about the art of cooking and connection. “This is my new Sunday family dinner—a different family every week. I just love giving this culture to people I’d never cross paths with otherwise.”
She sends everyone home with leftovers and encouragement. “Don’t be intimidated. The old Italians made food out of whatever they had—there’s no single correct way.”
IN MY GRANDMOTHER’S KITCHEN
111 Oak Ter., Merchantville
inmygrandmotherskitchen.com
856.577.9306
